Pullulan and DPHP Pullulan and DPHP
Q: Just recently rcvd some info regarding a product that contained these 2 ingred. in it. I checked your wonderful ingred. glossary [which is now my bible].....and didn't see these, I don't think....unless they also go by other names..of which I would not be able to determine on my own.

States Pullulan is a sea algae....but I couldn't find anyplace where it verified this. All I could determine was a Glucosamine taken in tablet form. I did find lots of skincare products that add this ingred. when I did a search. Supposed to be 'proven in clinical trials to tighten skin in 30 days'. Was wondering exactly what this ingred. is and what could create a 'tightening' of skin via this ingred. I've no earthly idea what Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline it something that has simply been hydrogenated? Are these just further variations of hexapeptides.......Argireline and the like? The Dipalmitoyl Hydrox. is supposed to be 'botanically derived'.....a vegetable alternative. WHAT IS THAT? Supposed to 'smooth facial expressions' that part has me thinking is just another form of Argireline. Just curious! Argireline is not 'botanically derived' is it? I've e mailed the source of this info for more detailed data.........but have not rcvd. response. I knew you would here I am again! Thanks much. Jeflin

A: Dear Jeflin,

Pullulan is a polysaccharide made from starch by microorganism fermentation. It is widely used in food and pharmaceuticals for forming a film around products like candy, tablets and so on. In cosmetics, like all polysaccharides, it can absorb water and cause tightening, or better, create a protective film on the skin. This can help hydration by occlusion. The tightening effect is superficial and not long-lasting, which is not to say that it is bad.

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline (DPHP) is a combination of an amino acid (hydroxyproline) and a lipid (palmitic acid or alcohol). It seems to be one of the widely used new anti-aging ingredients, especially in lip plumping products. The claim is that it firms the skin (through an action on collagen fibres), protects the dermal matrix, also is a free radical scavanger and helps moisturize. It seems to be well tolerated by the skin, in the same vein as previously discussed similar products - that much is known for now. (The information comes from sources promoting the product).

Similarities with Argeriline come only from it being a peptide (a chain of amino acids) and Hydroxyproline being an amino acid itself. Argeriline is syntheticaly produced but amino acids will normally come from a natural source, since they are abundant in nature and food. I wouldn't know whether it's animal or vegetable source though. Matrixyl is also a synthetic product, made to mimic natural peptides.

All the best,

Ivana K.

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